Cruising Malta

IMG_3123.JPGNot really a cruising ground but useful as a wintering stop” is how the cruising guide described Malta.

Yet if you stop and speak to any of the thousands of Maltese sailors and boater they will wistfully tell you about several of their beautiful bays and beaches.

Nott wanting to go too far afield until we got back into the swing of cruising life and got to know the boat we decided to make a plan to cruise around Malta.

In truth the time on the hard had gone incredibly quickly. We started with a very long job list in a dusty boatyard in the midst of  the oppressive July heat. I would like to say everything on the list got done, but we barely made a good start on the top third and then when our Australian registration arrived we had reached the point where I declared enough and abruptly put her into the water.

While launching the boat we were fortunate that my cousin Joanne and her family had decided to spend their summer holidays in Malta with us so that we had a great group of us to ‘christen’ Blue Dancer with a bit of champagne! It was also great to catchup, use the pool in their apartment complex to cool off and to have some great dinners together.

While its a it is true that Malta is a fairly small archpilegeo, there are actually several beautiful bays and anchorages with everything from (relative) wilderness with amazing clear blue water to stunning spots to anchor in the middle of the city of Valletta.

We spent a wistful week just in San Niklaw Bay  anchored off the Comino Hotel swimming, cooking and enjoying a drink sat on the hotel deck in what can only be described as a quintessential Mediterranean postcard.

It was here however that we had our first hiccup with a faulty starter motor as well as a few electrical issues.  As we decided we were ready to sail for Sicily, instead it was back to Roland Marina in Malta for a replacement!

While frustrated by the timing and delay,  it turned out it was also a good opportunity to finish a few other jobs and to play tourist for a few days. Special mention goes to two new friends, Jacques from JDV Boat Services and Petar from Medcomm for going over and above in helping us getting moving again. Sometimes a chance meeting in an unforeseen circumstance is what makes cruising fun and oh so different from package holidays!

Eventually after much longer in Malta than we ever intended, ‘cruising’ in an area one is not mean’t to cruise……..we headed over to Gozo and then finally onward to Sicily!

Ready, Set, Go!

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I arrived in Malta yesterday but it already feels like I’ve been here a month.

Jetlag and the oppressive heat of Malta in July have amplified the boatyard blues, but still can’t stifle the sheer excitement of actually being here, being onboard our Moody 425 sailboat after so much dreaming, saving and waiting.

The past few months have gone so quickly as we have tried to get as much ready as possible from afar in Sydney. Drawing up lists, packing all our sailing gear, trying to figure out what we should bring to Malta and what we can just buy over there.

Now I am here I have a couple of weeks to get her ready and back into the water before the rest of family arrive and we head to Italy. Getting to know a new boat can be overwhelming. I took the approach of starting with a simple methodical task. Open every locker and clean her front to back. You know the boat is clean, but also it gave me a chance to look in every locker and nook, figure out where spares were hiding, what was missing and to get to know the boat and gather my thoughts.

After that I spent a good couple of days staring at the engine. She is the original Thonrycroft T98 that came standard with Moody 425’s. However the engine has been well maintained by the past few owners and with just over 5000 engine hours I hesitant to sink considerable money into buying a new engine immediately. So I tightened hose clamps, replaced some coolant and read manuals and notes left by her previous owners.

Wanting to make the boat feel more like ‘home’ and give her our own personal touch we have spent the past couple of weeks before I left sewing cushion covers and pillows. It was one thing we could do in Sydney and bring to the boat to instantly lift the interior. Barry from the Moody 425 Sumer Wine through active Moody Owner’s Association forum kindly measured his cushions and was able to assist us from afar!

While not a professional job by any standards after $200 and about 20 hours sewing we are happy with the results after I spent this afternoon fitting them and making notes of a couple of small nips and tucks!

Tomorrow ……I will begin the AIS install and do a bit of restitching on our bimini!

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We Bought a Boat

IMG_1904After deciding for various reasons(see my previous post) that buying a boat in the Med was going to be our next thing we figured the best idea was to just bite the bullet, grab our shortlist of boats, call some brokers, fly to the med and see what might come of all of this.

So we did the whirlwind budget tour of france, Greece and then Malta.

We found in general a similar sad story in the Med. Boats sitting disused in Boatyards sometimes not sailed for a couple of years and owners who had an inflated idea of what they were worth.

“Oh the engine hasn’t been started in 3 years…..no they don’t know the engine hours and the standing rigging is 20 years old but it’s a great boat”

So it was in Malta that we found a Moody 425 that spoke to us. It was also the right boat at the right price. While approaching 30 years of age and a little tired around the edges it had a great inventory of cruising gear, it was in good condition and a design we really respected and was spot on for our needs.

So it begins! So many lists. A  bit of work to be done. But we are so ready to start this next adventure!

 

 

 

 

 

How to survey a boat on the internet

Okay, before I get hate mail, to be quite clear, no you cannot actually survey a boat on the internet 😛

However the past months as we frantically search Yachtworld determining boats worthy of further attention we have become quite practiced at what we have come to phrase ‘internet surveying’.

We are looking largely at yachts located in far flung ports, so beyond simple internet dreaming and gazing, we have had to develop a stringent process/list to determine whether a contender found on the ‘net is worthy of us spending time and money to actually go inspect in person.

So….. here are some of our tips for ‘surveying boats on the internet’

Start with the Engine Bay!

 

ALWAYS have a close, microscopic look at any and all pictures of the engine. I find the cleanliness of the engine bay is often a good indication of the overall condition of the boat and the previous owner’s general attitude to maintenance. The moment I click on a boat listing , I skip through all the pretty photos of cushions and berths and start with the photos of the engine! If the engine bay is dirty and the engine poorly maintained I assume that I will find this theme continued throughout the boat.

I am also keeping an eye out for any suspicious stains or marks and their location!

I award big points for a clean engine bay, and bonus points if you find pictures of oil/fuel filters with dates on them! That’s a owner who has a maintenance regime and is looking after his vessel.

Has the boat been tidied up prior to sale?

This tells you volumes about the circumstances of the sale sometimes. It still surprises me the amount of photos that get posted on yacht listings that include the owners dirty dishes in sinks, the owners toiletries and personal belongings strewn everywhere. A boat that has been photographed hurriedly  and put on the market ‘as is where is’ might suggest owners who are motivated and so an opportunity to negotiate heavily on the asking price. On the other hand a boat that is photographed immaculately and presents neatly ready for sale and tidy is a boat that someone has taken great pride in.

Look for any stains around windows and hatches

Prestigious use of the zoom function to check for any tell tale signs of water ingress and leaks is always a simple step you can take to get an idea of the condition of the interior. Also If the chain plates are visible in any photos these are worthy of a bit of a zoom in.

How many photos are actually on the Boat Ad and how many are additionally available?

Boat ads trying to sell a $300k yacht in Turkey that comprise 5 grainy blurry images don’t do it for me. I want to see photos of everything. Its 2018 and there is no excuse for there not to be a detailed portfolio. In addition to the Engine Bay as above I want to see photos of the bilge, keel bolts, chainplates and batteries to see if anything obvious jumps out.  If there are photos missing or a unwillingness to provide an accurate portrayal of the yacht and its condition I start to wonder what is being hidden and why.

Ask for and study the Haulout Photos

It’s pretty common practice now for most boatyards/DIY owners to take a couple of pics after applying the coats antifoul before dropping the boat back in the water. They may not show up on the Boat listing as they are not the  ‘sexy’ photos that sell boats on the internet but often they will be produced if you ask for them. If they don’t want to share them…..Again I wonder why.

Again here I use the contrast and zoom functions of the photo to get a basic understanding of the condition of the hull and appendages.

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The best Survey is a Survey….

Most yacht insurance companies now insist on periodic surveys on older vessels. If your looking at older yachts, chances are there could of been an insurance survey done in the recent past. While obviously it will be dated and I would always recommend you get your own independent additional survey done,  its invaluable information in determining whether to pursue a boat listing further or not.

Hassle the Broker

If I am interested in a yacht, I immediately start emailing the broker ask any detailed questions I may have.  A broker who readily replies and is helpful in giving you a good idea of the condition and specifics of a yacht before you travel to inspect is a great asset. Likewise an owner who is proud of his yacht and understand the process of selling should be all too willing to pass on information and answer questions through the broker. (Having said all of this always remember you are buying the boat not the broker!)

And Finally…….A BIG BIG plug for marine surveyors

We are on the hunt for our fourth boat. When buying the last three we have always obtained a pre purchase survey and it has always been money well spent. A friend recently discovered that even when buying a late model, ‘good condition’ boat there are never guarantees when the astute eye of his experienced surveyor saved him tens of thousands in regards to a critical issue.

 

We visit the Sydney International Boat Show

The Sydney International Boat Show just wrapped up here in Sydney. We went along interested in what is new both in boats and boating products!

 

The highlight was the Amel 55. A beautiful cruising yacht well and truly out of our budget!

Check out some of my thoughts in the video above.

Kbye!

Buying a Bluewater Cruising Boat

About three years ago almost to the day I sold my last boat.

Since then life has been a blur of work, parenting, and collapsing on the couch with a glass of cheap wine and scouring yachtworld every night.

So where we at?

Most boats in Sydney that meet a rough description of what we want seem to be either ridiculously overpriced or non existent.

I had begun to ponder our cruising plans and realised that having already cruised the East Coast of Australia the next step for us is basically in the Pacific or Asia.

EXCEPT… at the same time amongst some of the blogs I was following and sailors I knew/spoke to I saw a theme developing. Australians were buying boats in Europe and sailing them back en masse.

I could understand why.  A downhill run from Europe would be the makings of a pretty swell  cruising plan with plenty of scope to be flexible.

As if to seal the deal….Ummm Josie has always wanted to sail the Med.

I have promised her repeatedly that one day we would get there.  The last charter we did in Italy far exceeded our wildest expectations and the food and warm water had my dearly beloved  in heaven. Of course to get to Europe by boat from Australia is somewhat of an ordeal. Besides given the boat market seemed far more buoyant in Europe it would also be a little bit akin to taking tea to China perhaps.

So over wine and yachtworld a rough plan was formed. Buy a boat in the Med and bring it back to OZ.

 

What kind of boat do we want?

It seems that compromise is key when it comes to selecting the right sailing boat. We have owned and sailed everything from solid, slow full keelers to modern cruisers/racers.  All have their pros and cons.

So we have firmly landed on a boat selection mantra. Moderate everything. We want a mid sized, mid priced, moderate displacement, modern, cruiser.

We’ll have to be flexible and keep an open mind of course.  

Our wish list:

  • A 10 – 15 year old boat.
  • Centre Cockpit
  • GRP
  • 41-50 foot
  • Reasonable performance.
  • Ready to cruise, no refits thanks.

 

What kind of boats did we look at?

A Favourite Spot: Middle Percy Island

One question that inevitably comes up when we talk to people about cruising the Great Barrier Reef is what spots we absolutely loved.

While there were easily several places in this part of the world that we really enjoyed, one that was certainly right up there is Middle Percy Island.

Pretty infamous in cruising circles Middle Percy Island is the quintessential island cruising experience.

West Bay is a white sandy, inviting beach complete wih coconut palms and the ” Percy Hilton’ an A frame structure that serves as a meeting point and hangout for cruisers. Full of momentos from passing yachts and complete with the ‘swing’ and hammocks. A decent walk up the hill and you will find the homestead, where the current custodians of the island live. Refreshments and some fresh produce might be available, these guys are doing a great job of looking after the island.

Frowned on by Alan Lucas in his cruising guides as a uncomfortable anchorage we were lucky during our time there and only experienced some minor swell typical of any island anchorage in this area.

Warm days at Middle Percy  swimming in clear blue water, cooking fresh fish in coconut and watching a magic sunset every night made it a hard spot to leave. If you wanted to be social there were always other cruisers to get together with.  If not then watching life pass by pleasantly seemed to fill up  day.

The history of this island is umm well interesting, To find out more it about this fascinaing place visit

http://percyisland.com.au

Heading Home

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Our last night in Coffs started with sundowners on Whimaway and then Kristi and Rick came around for a night of wine and cheese. Local cruisers we had met last time we were in Coffs when they had grabbed our lines back then and shown two very tired and stressed parents/newbie cruisers overwhelming hospitality, they are truly the kind of people that represent everything cruising should be about.

Sitting back with them in the saloon and talking about the passages and experiences we had been through seemed like a very fitting last night.

With the Pied Piper now knocking loudly on the side of the hull beckoning us, we decided to head from Coffs Harbour straight to Pittwater to get home as soon as possible. Slightly worse for wear (the second bottle of wine was probably not a good idea) we again left in company with Whimaway. It proved to be another magic overnighter, dolphins and whales close to the boat (a little too close!) and a fast sail with a near full moon.

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By sunrise we were past Port Stephens and spoke with Mix’d Nutz on the radio as they were leaving Shoal Bay. Almost 36 hours after leaving Coffs we were inside Pittwater. The sight of Lion island brought tears to both of our eyes, we were home, but also our time aboard our beautiful boat was, for the moment, nearly over.

We pulled into our old berth, not exactly gracefully, knocking the fire hydrant at the end of the berth, in our only berthing incident in months of cruising. Being very wide, easy to approach and very familiar, the irony was not exactly appreciated by all at the time. None the less, we were home, arriving in the middle of the “festival of sail” with boats and people everywhere, we were dismissed as been just another boat out for a day on Pittwater.

The band in the bar started playing “sitting on the dock of the bay” as we turned off the engine and opened a bottle of wine. The grandparents would be here shortly, eager to see Sophie after months away, then there were friends to see, errands to run and that piper character seemed to now be standing up at the bow shaking a finger at us and tut-tutting loudly. For the moment, however, we just sat and listened to the music and chatted, laughing as we watched our gorgeous daughter attempt, yet again, to dismantle the autopilot.

“Josie, You know if we headed up there and left from Coffs Harbour in April we could go across to Vanuatu and do the pacific thing…..”

“Yes honey, but maybe we should go and get some more corn chips and avocado first”…

Gold Coast to Coffs Harbour

After a few carefree days in Southport which also included couple of anxious phone calls home to work contacts and parents we were now very much behind our “intended cruise plan” ( the word schedule is very taboo in cruising circles, to use it even in whsipered tones is to tempt weather fate and most certainly doom one to all manner of storms and mechanical hold ups).

We left Southport in the middle of Melbourne Cup festivities in company with Whimaway to again take advantage of a very small weather window and had an uncomfortable start to the passage beating into large but decreasing seas. By the time Jo and Sophie went to bed however conditions aboard had improved considerably, by the early hours of the morning we had a warm westerly at 15 knots and with sheets eased and the moon shining as Dolphins swam past us and it was a magic sail. I put in my Ipod and decided to not wake Jo for her watch.

In planning this trip I had expected to enjoy the pretty places we would see, the islands and the beaches, to have fun meeting the new people we would meet, however it was these quiet but magic moments on sailboat moving easily before the wind and the moon that I had not expected.

We entered Coffs Harbour in the afternoon, had a very enjoyable dinner at the Yacht Club with Whimawa yand thought about how much had changed in the months since we had last arrived tired and terrified in Coffs Harbour after our first overnight passage.

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